Fence Calculator

Plan your fence with our free Fence Calculator. Instantly estimate materials, posts, and total cost for any fence type—accurate, easy, and perfect for DIYers and contractors.

Fence Calculator

Calculate the exact number of posts, panels, concrete, and hardware needed to build your fence, plus a detailed cost estimate.

Fence Dimensions & Style
linear ft

Post Spacing & Gates
feet
$/ft
Estimated Total Cost
$0.00
Based on 100 linear feet of fencing
Fence Layout Visualization
Material Breakdown
Material / HardwareQuantity

How to Use the Fence Calculator

Building a fence requires precise material estimation to avoid multiple trips to the hardware store and unexpected budget overruns. This fence calculator simplifies the process by breaking down your project into exact quantities of posts, rails, pickets (or fabric rolls), concrete, and hardware. To get the most accurate results, measure your property boundaries carefully using a long tape measure, accounting for corners and elevation changes.

Step 1: Define the Perimeter

Walk the exact line where the fence will be installed. Do not estimate by looking at a survey map—maps often show property lines, but the fence might be built 1 to 2 feet inside the line. Measure every straight run separately, then add them together for your total linear feet.

Step 2: Account for Gates

Every time you place a gate, you remove a section of fencing. The calculator automatically subtracts the width of the gates you specify (defaulting to 4 ft for walk gates and 12 ft for drive gates) from the total fence length before calculating the number of panels or pickets needed.

Step 3: Adjust Post Spacing

Standard post spacing is 6 to 8 feet depending on the material. Wood privacy fences typically use 8-foot spacing, while vinyl fences often require 6-foot spacing for rigidity. Chain link fences usually use 10-foot spacing. Closer spacing makes a fence stronger but significantly increases your material cost.

Fence Material Comparison: Which is Best?

Choosing the right material dramatically impacts your upfront cost, lifespan, and maintenance requirements. Here is a comprehensive comparison of the most popular residential fencing materials:

MaterialLifespanUpfront CostMaintenanceBest For
Wood (Cedar/Pine)15-20 yearsLow-MediumHigh (Staining/Painting every 3-5 yrs)DIYers, traditional aesthetics, privacy
Vinyl (PVC)20-30 yearsMedium-HighLow (Occasional soap/water wash)Homeowners wanting zero maintenance
Chain Link15-25 yearsLowNoneLarge perimeters, pet containment, security
Wrought Iron/Aluminum50+ yearsVery HighLow (Rust touch-ups)High-end aesthetics, security, pool codes

Concrete and Post Hole Calculations

A common mistake DIYers make is underestimating the amount of concrete needed for fence posts. Standard 4x4 wood fence posts require a hole that is generally 8 to 12 inches in diameter and 24 to 36 inches deep (below the local frost line to prevent heaving during winter). Each post hole typically requires 1 to 2 standard 50lb bags of quick-set concrete. For a 100-foot fence with 8-foot spacing, you will have roughly 14 posts, meaning you should purchase 14 to 28 bags of concrete. Always round up, as you cannot buy half a bag.

Zoning Laws and Permits: Do You Need a Permit?

In most municipalities across the US, Canada, and the UK, building a fence requires a permit if the fence exceeds a certain height—usually 6 feet (1.8 meters) for side and rear yards, and 4 feet (1.2 meters) for front yards. Even if you are replacing an old fence with an identical one, a permit is often legally required. Building without a permit can result in fines, forced removal of the fence, or complications when selling your home. Additionally, local codes dictate which side of the property line the "good" (finished) side of the fence must face. Failing to follow setback rules can lead to bitter disputes with neighbors.

How to Save Money on Your Fence Project

  • Buy in bulk: Purchasing pickets, rails, and concrete in bulk from a lumber yard rather than picking individual pieces at a big-box store can save 10-20%.
  • Space posts optimally: Maximize your post spacing to the allowable limit for your chosen material to reduce the number of holes you have to dig and the amount of concrete you have to pour.
  • Consider hybrid builds: Use pressure-treated wood posts (which go in the ground) combined with vinyl or aluminum panels (which never need painting) to get the best of both worlds.
  • DIY the easy parts: Dig the post holes and set the posts yourself, but hire a professional to stretch the chain link or hang the heavy wood panels if you lack the equipment.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many fence posts do I need for 100 feet?
If your posts are spaced 8 feet apart, you will need 14 posts for a 100-foot straight run (100 / 8 = 12.5, plus 1 end post = 13.5, rounded up to 14). If you have corners, you must add a post for every corner change.
How deep should fence posts be buried?
The general rule is that at least one-third of the total post length should be buried. For a standard 8-foot wood post, that means burying it 2.5 to 3 feet deep. Crucially, the bottom of the hole must extend below your local frost line (often 36 inches in northern climates) to prevent winter freeze-thaw cycles from pushing the posts out of the ground.
Is a 6-foot fence tall enough for privacy?
A 6-foot fence provides excellent privacy for most ground-level applications. However, if your neighbor's yard is elevated, or if you have a deck, a 6-foot fence might not provide adequate visual blocking. In those cases, an 8-foot fence may be necessary (though this almost always requires a zoning variance permit).
Should I use nails or screws for a wood fence?
Always use exterior-grade deck screws (like GRK or Starborn) rather than nails. Nails will eventually pop out as the wood expands and contracts with moisture and temperature changes. Screws provide a permanent hold and make it much easier to replace a damaged picket later without destroying the adjacent rails.
Which way should the fence face?
Local codes usually dictate this, but the standard convention is that the "finished" or "good" side of the fence (the side without the horizontal rails showing) should face the neighbor. The side with the exposed framework should face your property. Be sure to verify this with your local zoning board before building, as reversing it is a common source of neighbor disputes.

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